Food Culture Cultivated by Hokkaido University, Chapter 3: The Hokudai Raspberry

This article was published in the Spring 2024 issue of Litterae Populi. The full issue can be found here.

The Hokudai Raspberry, developed on a Hokkaido University experimental farm (Courtesy of Sunagawa Orchard)

The Hokudai Raspberry, which originated at Yoichi Orchard, an experimental farm of Hokkaido University, is the fruit of a collaboration where researchers and students of the University teamed up with farmers from Yoichi Town to challenge conventional wisdom about raspberries.

Challenging the status quo where over 90% of raspberries sold in Japan are imported

Located in Yoichi Town, about 60 km west of Sapporo, Yoichi Orchard has been an experimental farm of Hokkaido University since 1912, engaging in research on approximately 60 varieties of fruit, including apples and haskap berries. Raspberries, referred to as framboise in French and seiyou kiichigo (Western bramble) in Japanese, not only add a sweet and sour taste, but also give a rich aroma to culinary creations. Despite their popularity in Japan, particularly in cakes and confections, over 90% of raspberries used in Japan are imported. The main sources of raspberries are Europe and America, as Japan’s hot, humid climate makes the berries prone to mold and disease. Thus, the conventional wisdom has been that their domestic cultivation is challenging, with necessary investments in infrastructure like plastic greenhouses driving up costs, rendering competition with imported raspberries a formidable task.

Well over a decade ago, during some fieldwork, Professor Yoichiro Hoshino of the Field Science Center for Northern Biosphere noticed brambles growing wild in Hokkaido. Recognizing the lack of progress in improvements to domestic raspberry cultivars despite their widespread availability in the Japanese market, Professor Hoshino embarked on research with his students in 2007 to develop new cultivars that would be both flavorful and easy to cultivate in Hokkaido.

Experiments with the Hokudai Raspberry (Courtesy of Professor Yoichiro Hoshino)

Professor Hoshino and his team studied the characteristics of five bramble varieties native to Hokkaido and 14 raspberry varieties from Europe and America, undertaking more than 100 cross-pollination experiments. They collected pollen from raspberry flowers, gently opened the petals of flower buds of native varieties, removed the stamens, and then pollinated the stigma. To prevent cross-pollination with other pollen, each flower bud was then covered with a bag. This meticulous manual work was diligently performed by the students. After the fruit developed, DNA analysis was conducted to ensure the accuracy of the cross-pollination. The team also analyzed the resulting fruit for yield, size, acidity, sugar content, and individual aromatic components.

As a result, the team developed new lines of raspberries that are disease-resistant, high-yielding, and superior in flavor and appearance. Four particularly outstanding lines were designated the “Hokudai Raspberry.” They also acquired the “twice-bearing” trait found in wild varieties, bearing fruit twice a year. Although they are smaller than raspberry varieties from Europe and America, Professor Hoshino is proud of these berries: “We focused on appearance and selected only the most beautiful ones. We’re equally confident in their flavor.”

Cultivating love for the Hokudai Raspberry in Hokkaido

Professor Hoshino devoted as much effort to promoting the use of the Hokudai Raspberry among farmers in Yoichi as he did to improving the raspberry varieties. He enlisted the support of the Yoichi Town Office to provide Hokudai Raspberry vines to local farmers who showed interest. Mr. Keiji Sunagawa, head of Sunagawa Orchard, which grows the Hokudai Raspberry, says, “The Hokudai Raspberry stands out from other varieties for its strong aroma and sweetness. Another advantage is that the berries maintain their shape during harvesting. Given the aging farming population and the challenges of working on stepladders, the Hokudai Raspberry’s low vine height makes harvesting easy. Additionally, its resistance to diseases and pests reduces the need for pesticide application.” To promote the Hokudai Raspberry, Sunagawa Orchard began selling the raspberries at JAL (Japan Airlines)’s online shop in February 2024.

Raspberry & Chocolate Muffin (Courtesy of Kurumi-no-ki)

Moreover, the Hokudai Raspberry has found its way into products at Kurumi-no-ki, a bakery and goods shop in Yoichi Town, being featured in their Raspberry & Chocolate Muffin. Kurumi Takeuchi, the proprietor, says: “It was a real surprise to find domestically—even locally—grown raspberries available when I started my shop in Yoichi three years ago. The mild acidity of the Hokudai Raspberry pairs well with chocolate, making it perfect for sweets. Our muffins made with the Hokudai Raspberry are so beloved that we receive advance orders for them.”

After 15 years of development from basic research, the Hokudai Raspberry was finally trademarked in 2022. Professor Hoshino shares his enthusiasm: “My aim has always been to conduct research that would benefit others. It felt like walking a tightrope, but with the support of many people, we’ve reached this point, which I consider a miracle. I’m eager to continue promoting the Hokudai Raspberry.”

Hokkaido University-branded products infused with the wisdom of our predecessors KINO Rikako Manager Institute for the Promotion of Business-Regional Collaboration, Hokkaido University Hokkaido University markets various products under its brand, showcasing the institution’s research achievements and unique characteristics. Adorned with the university’s name and its trillium flower logo, the brand portfolio includes a diverse range of 276 items, including food and cosmetics. They are available at various campus locations, including the university co-op, cafés, and the Hokkaido University Museum. Products leveraging the University’s agricultural expertise and research technologies include Hokudai Shorthorn beef, the Hokudai Raspberry, and Hokudai Milk from cows grazed on the farm at the Sapporo Campus. A unique characteristic of Hokudai Milk is its seasonal flavor profile: Summer yields a lighter, refreshing taste due to the cows’ diet of fresh pasture; winter brings a richer flavor from their consumption of hay and corn. This distinctive milk is served at Hokudai Marche Café & Labo and at Museum Café Polus in the Hokkaido University Museum. Cookies and sweets crafted from Hokudai Milk are also available at Hokudai Marche Café & Labo. Not to be missed, Café de Gohan, located near the university’s main gate, offers delectable soft-serve ice cream made from Hokudai Milk. Additionally, freshwater salmonids bred over several generations at the Nanae Freshwater Station near the Hakodate Campus are marketed as Hokudai Trout. These fish, not used in research, are raised in clean environments, leading to a taste with minimal fishiness and allowing the natural flavors of the flesh and fat to be fully appreciated. Smoked cherry salmon and landlocked salmon are among the products made from Hokudai Trout and are available at locations including the Oshima Fresh Market, near Fort Goryokaku in Hakodate. “Hokkaido University-branded products are treasures that encapsulate the ancestral wisdom and rich history of the university,” says Kino. “We invite you to look for the trillium flower logo in shops, pick up our products firsthand, and experience a deeper bond with Hokkaido University.”

This article was published in the Spring 2024 issue of Litterae Populi. The full issue can be found here.