Pursuing sustainable winemaking rooted in the terroir

This article was published in the Spring 2024 issue of Litterae Populi. The full issue can be found here.

Fumiko Tanzawa serves as the Manager of Preparation, overseeing the winemaking process at Château Mercian’s Katsunuma Winery. Aiming to create wines that resonate with Japanese consumers, she believes that wine should be a drink that complements daily meals and that is deeply rooted in the local culture. She shared insights based on memories of her student days and on what she finds fulfilling about her work.

Fumiko Tanzawa in the underground cellar of Katsunuma Winery (Courtesy of Mercian Corporation)

Fumiko Tanzawa

Acting Director of Château Mercian Katsunuma Winery

Graduated from the School of Agriculture and Graduate School of Agriculture

In 2008, completed the master’s program at Hokkaido University Graduate School of Agriculture. Began research at Mercian Corporation the same year to enhance the quality of Japanese wine. Started studying in France in 2017. Appointed as the first female Manager of Preparation at the company in 2021. Also serves as the Acting Director of Katsunuma Winery, and was interviewed for this article during this period. In April 2024, she assumes the charge of Production and Engineering, Production Management Department. Certified as an oenologist by the University of Burgundy. Received the 2015 ASEV Japan Technical Merit Award.

What was your childhood like?

I was born and raised in Yamanashi Prefecture, renowned for its grape production. Growing up, I often volunteered to help with various tasks at my grandfather’s vineyard, including performing gibberellin treatment to cultivate seedless grape varieties and engaging in the harvest. In my junior high school and high school years, I had a keen interest in math and science. Through compiling newspaper clippings, as assigned by a teacher, I found myself drawn to the field of food development. Coupled with my passion for eating, this interest led me to entertain the possibility of pursuing a degree in agricultural science and embarking on a career in the food industry.

What are your memories of Hokkaido University?

As a first- and second-year student, I was on the administrative team for the Yuryo Festival, one of several events that make up the Hokkaido University Festival. I oversaw the organization of numerous food stalls along the Main Street. Driven by a desire to fully embrace the responsibility, I stepped up to lead the team in my second year. My role encompassed a wide range of responsibilities to ensure that the food stalls would operate safely and smoothly. This included overseeing food hygiene standards, negotiating with the university administration, coordinating with the fire department, and devising traffic management plans. Managing the team was a formidable challenge, filled with learning opportunities. Looking back, these experiences provided me with skills that have been immensely beneficial in my current profession.

What research did you do at graduate school?

I focused on the study of carbohydrate-degrading enzymes in Professor Masayuki Okuyama’s laboratory at the Research Faculty of Agriculture. I delved into the mechanisms behind the activation of enzymes that break down starch into sugars such as glucose. Encouraged by my upperclassmen’s belief that mastery in experiments with these delicate enzymes would prepare me for a broad spectrum of lab tasks, I dedicated myself to the research, convinced that it would also prove beneficial after I entered the workforce. I vividly remember a senior colleague who interviewed me when I applied for my job remarking later on how passionately I had discussed my research during the interview.

Could you tell us about your work at Mercian?

I joined Mercian Corporation, a company specializing in the production and sale of wine and other alcoholic beverages, eager to apply the biochemistry knowledge I had gained at university. This decision was also influenced by a book my father recommended. For about five years, I worked on basic research that aimed at improving wine quality, and I was involved in factory quality management. Starting in 2017, I had the fortunate opportunity to study in Burgundy, France, for two and a half years. There, I marveled at France’s extensive winemaking history and the diversity of its wines. I realized, however, that while French wines perfectly complement the butter-rich meat dishes of French cuisine, they might not pair as well with the everyday Japanese diet. This experience led me to conclude that it was not necessary to replicate everything. Instead, I became determined to create wines in Japan that would harmonize with Japanese meals and culture.

Fumiko Tanzawa checks the growth of the grapes. (Courtesy of Mercian Corporation)

You were appointed as the first female Manager of Preparation at Mercian in 2021, weren’t you?

Yes, I was appointed Manager of Preparation to leverage the skills I’d honed in France. I’m responsible for overseeing the entire winemaking process, from drafting production plans and deciding the timing of grape harvesting to managing the winery’s operational schedules and staff assignments. This position is particularly fulfilling, as it allows my judgment and ideas, which I formulate while closely monitoring the growth of grapes, to have a direct impact on the quality of our wines. Creating something together with my colleagues is a source of joy. Moreover, it’s incredibly rewarding when our customers praise our wines after years marked by challenges such as adverse weather.

What kind of winemaking do you aim for in the future?

I’m committed to pursuing winemaking that fully embraces Japan’s climate and terroir. My goal is to craft delicious wines that are suited to our local conditions by selecting grape varieties that are well-suited to our terroir, minimizing labor and environmental impact, and employing a straightforward approach to winemaking. In doing so, I aim to achieve winemaking that’s sustainable for both the community and the environment.

Lastly, could you give a message to students at Hokkaido University?

Initially, I saw my academic pursuits in the lab and my involvement in club activities as totally separate. I’ve come to realize, however, that both have significantly contributed to my current endeavors. I encourage students to proactively pursue their interests, making the most of Hokkaido University’s beautiful campus and its enriched environment. This, I believe, lays the groundwork for a fulfilling future.

This article was published in the Spring 2024 issue of Litterae Populi. The full issue can be found here.